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Monday 9 March 2015

Artistic Sepia Colorizing Effect

03:29 Posted by faseehkhan No comments

Introduction


Let me remind you before we begin that I’m working on a 540×540 pixel file that’s at 72ppi, so if you’re applying this process to a higher resolution image you’ll want to increase the strength of the filters accordingly to get the desired effect. Let me also state the obvious and say that photo effects work better on some photos than others. As any good photographer will tell you, this sort of effect is very much determined by personal taste, and you should experiment with each of the settings to decide what looks best to you. Some of my coolest photos and photo effects have been created while experimenting with different filter and layer combinations.

(*note: You should have at least Photoshop CS2 for this tutorial as some of the filters used were not present in earlier versions.)

Step 1

Here’s a lovely photo of a striking young man that I think will be perfect for this effect (although this particular photo effect can also work well on still life and landscape photos as well). A few factors that make this photo ideal are the nice lighting conditions and the lack of distraction in the background.


Step 2

The first few steps will serve to soften the details and smooth out the tones, but lets first duplicate the background layer by pressing Command-J (PC: Ctrl-J) so if we screw up we can just delete the copy and start over without effecting or original image. This also creates an easy way for us to compare the original to the final product.

We’re going to use the Reduce Noise filter to do a preliminary smoothing of the working surface. Select Filter>Noise>Reduce Noise. All we’re asking this filter to do is to take out tiny variations in tone so use the settings below.

(*note: The Reduce Noise filter is relatively new to Photoshop, so if you’re using an older version and don’t have this in your Filters menu, don’t worry, you can skip this step and still end up with a nice effect.)


Step 3

Now that we’ve reduced the small variations it’s time to do some real smoothing. Choose Filter>Blur>Surface Blur from the main menu and set both the radius and threshold to 5. This will add an almost painted look to the photo because the large areas of similar tone have been blended so well.


Step 4

Now lets bring back a little bit of crispness by using a powerful addition to the Sharpen menu called Smart Sharpen. Choose Filter>Sharpen>Smart Sharpen and adjust the sliders until the areas of your photograph with the largest amount of contrast have crisp edges again (like the eyes and hair in my photograph).

If you want to see the difference these filters has made, simply turn the working layer on and off in the Layers palette by clicking on the little eye icon to the left of the layer’s thumbnail.


Step 5

Here’s what my photo looks like so far. Notice that the skin has been smoothed extensively but there is still a significant level of sharpness in the image overall.



Step 6

Here comes the fun part where we create the color-shift that defines the look of this effect. First press the D key to reset the foreground and background colors to black and white respectively.

We’ll be using an Adjustment Layer, so click on the Create New Fill or Adjustment Layer icon at the bottom of the Layers palette (it’s the one that looks like a circle with one half black and the other white) and choose Gradient Map from the menu. When the dialog appears, click ON the gradient to open the Gradient Editor where we’ll create a custom gradient in the next step.

(*note: The Gradient Map adjustment layer does exactly what it says, it maps a gradient to the tonal range of the image.)



Step 7

We’ll begin by selecting one of the Photoshop default gradients, in this case the one that goes from black to white (this is the first of the default gradients in the gradient picker).

Now that we’ve got the basics in place it’s time to look down to the bottom of the Gradient Editor. The black and white endpoints of the gradient have already been set so now we need to add a few custom markers in the middle to give us the desired effect.

Click anywhere just beneath the gradient to add a new point at that location (the color will be set by default to the exact color at that point in the existing gradient). With the new point added, click directly on the point to access it’s color and location options. Set the first point to #412C08 and change it’s location to 20% then add a second point to the right of the first and set the color to #ACA79A and it’s location to 60%. When you’re done click OK to set the gradient and then click OK on the original Gradient Map dialog to commit the adjustment layer to the document.


Step 8

Things should now look like my example below. Notice that a new layer has been created above our working photo layer called Gradient Map 1. If at any time you wish to adjust the Gradient Map adjustment layer, simply double click on the layer’s icon to re-open the dialog exactly as you left it.


Step 9

Next we’re going to add some punch to the tones with another Adjustment Layer, so just like in Step 6, click on the Create New Fill or Adjustment Layer icon at the bottom of the layers palette and this time choose Channel Mixer.

Normally the Channel Mixer is used to adjust color mixture on a per-channel basis (ie Red,Green & Blue). It’s quite useful, but we won’t be using it that way today. What I want you to do is go into EACH of the respective colors in the Output Channel drop down and give that color 100% and the other two channels in that color 0%… So in the Red output channel red would be set to 100% and Green and Blue both at 0%… do the same for the Green and Blue output channels and then click OK. If you do this correctly absolutely nothing in your image will have changed when you’re done.


Step 10

Lastly lets add one final Adjustment Layer to add a touch more contrast to the image. From the Adjustment Layer menu we’ve been using at the bottom of the Layers palette choose Curves this time. When the Curves dialog box appears choose Linear Contrast (RGB) from the Preset drop down menu at the top and click OK.

(*note: You should feel free to play with different presets as well as custom curves to create different effects.)


Step 11

Remember, each photo is different and what works perfectly with one set of instructions can look like crap on another, so don’t let yourself get tied to exact formulas and prescribed steps. Experiment with each setting and learn what each filter and adjustment layer does, that way you’re only limit is your own creativity. Something as small as rearranging the order of the adjustment layers in this exercise can make a substantial difference in your end result.

Oh, and if you really want to have some fun, play with the colors in the Gradient Map! The sky is the limit!

In my final image I lowered the opacity of the Gradient Map adjustment layer to around 80% to let a little of the original skin tone show through which added a bit of warmth to the composition.


Sunday 8 March 2015

Apply a quick vintage look in Photoshop

Use Photoshop CS6’s Color Lookup feature to change colours within an image, in four simple steps.



Photoshop CS6 has plenty of useful features which save time & increase productivity, helping you generate incredible images & special effects with ease. of these is the Color Lookup feature, which can be utilised to generate a stunning vintage look of a far higher quality & depth than those obtainable on picture filter apps.

Here's how to accomplish the effect in simple steps, & below you'll find an picture for you to make use of with our guide...


01. Add Color Lookup layer


Open the 'color_lookup_before.jpg' start picture by File>Open. Next, click on the Manipulation layer icon & select Color Lookup in the drop-down menu. All the choices to adjust the colours in the picture will appear in a separate properties dialog box below.


02. Change the colours


There are different tabs from which you can select the choice colour effects. To give the picture a vintage look, switch to the Abstract tab. Then, from the drop-down menu, select Gold-Crimson. You can experiment with alternative effects depending on the way you need your final picture to appear.


03. Add a vignette



Next, duplicate the Background Layer and label it 'Filter effects'. Right-click the Filter effects layer and select Convert to Smart Object. This means that you can add multiple filter effects in a non-destructive way. To add a vignette, go to Filter>Lens Correction and switch to the Custom tab. Under Vignette, alter Amount to -60 and Midpoint to +40. Click OK.



04. Add some grain

 


Finally, to add some grain, go to Filter>Filter Gallery & under the Textures menu, select Grain. Increase Intensity to twenty & Contrast to 60. Keep Grain Type on Regular. Click OK to apply the effect, then save the picture as a PSD file to keep the layers intact.

Saturday 7 March 2015

Add the hipster vintage look to photos with Photoshop CS6

Learn how to utilise Adobe Camera Raw as a creative tool, and add cool retro effects to your shots.



The option to add retro effects to your photographs is now a necessary gizmo in any self-respecting picture editor on the App Store. In fact, adding retro effects to pics on your mobile phone has made a few people as rich as Croesus.
Don't forget to check out our Photoshop CS6 review.

Forget these automated apps, though! In this tutorial we'll show you how to add these effects by hand, using Adobe Camera Raw in Photoshop CS6 (and earlier versions), to any picture you select. Not happy with the final result? You have the choice to tweak your settings until you get the right result.

So, get prepared to dive in. We have even supplied an picture to help you start.


01.  Square crop





Open the picture from the link above in Adobe Camera Raw (ACR). Click onthe Crop tool and select one:1 aspect ratio fromthe drop-down. Select the Straighten tool and mark a line along the horizon of the lake.


02.  Split tone



Move to the Split Tone tab and select a yellowish hue for the highlights (about 60) and set Saturation to about 40. Set the shadows’ Hue slider to about 230 and the Saturation slider to 40 to give the darker tones a blue tint.


03.  Border effects

 



Select the Graduated Filter from the main menu. Set Exposure to -4.00 & Brightness to -200. Make a mark about 10mm in from edge & generate a very tiny gradient of about 2mm. Repeat this on all sides to make a thick black border.



04.  Add a vignette

 

For the finishing touches to the image, we’ll darken the corners to help draw the viewer’s eye into the frame and add to the retro style. Go to the E ffects tab and set the Post Crop Vignette Amount to about -50.

Friday 6 March 2015

Add Dynamic Lighting to a Flat Photograph


In this tutorial, I will show you how to spice up a dull and flat photograph. It is simple and rapid! Go from flat picture to a uniquely lit style.
Editor's note: This tutorial was originally published on Psdtuts in March of 2008.

Source Photos


For this tutorial, we'll need images that I took. You can download them to follow along. These are my images: castle picture & clouds picture.


Step 1


Anyway, use the Patch Tool (J) to remove the automobile & the Clone Stamp Tool (S) to recreate the pattern of the bricks where it was.

First of all, my apologies for this step. I waited for a lovely twenty minutes but that automobile didn't move, so I had to take the picture with it!

If you have never used the Patch Tool, there's a couple of ways to make use of it. First, make a choice as you would in the event you were using the Lasso Tool, then click inside the area & drag together with your mouse. Depending on whether you are using Source or Location as your checked option you will either move the picture inside the choice, or move the whole choice around. The Patch Tool will blend-in the area you have selected when you let go. You can also use patterns & transparency. All in all, it is a great tool.


Step 2


Once the van has been removed, apply Filter > Render > Lighting Effects to make the light come from the top right.


Step 3


With the device that you prefer, generate a choice of the part that you need to hide. For example, I used the Pen Tool (P) to select the sky and the buildings around the castle. With the choice active, add a Layer Mask.


Step 4


Duplicate the background layer, desaturate it with Ctrl+Shift+U, apply Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur with 4-pixel Radius, and set the Blending Mode for the layer to Overlay.



Step 5


Now they require a photograph with clouds & the rays of the sun coming from the right. I used this photograph of mine that was ideal for this situation.

Send it to the back of the other layers.

Then duplicate it & set the copy layer Blending Mode to Lighter Color.



Step 6


Duplicate again the original background picture (Layer one) and put the this new layer below the Layer one copy.

Set the Blending Mode to Multiply.



Step 7


Now turn off the visibility of the castle layers, go to the Layer one copy, & merge the visible layers in to a new layer with Ctrl+Shift+Alt+E.

Then desaturate it with Ctrl+Shift+U, set the Blending Mode to Overlay, & the Opaqueness to 50%.



Step 8


Make a brand spanking new layer on the top of the other.

With a huge, white, soft brush that matches the size of the light of the sun, make a round spot.

This is an example with black background to demonstrate the effect.

Then apply the Luce filter that you can download free or use the earlier tutorial about Lighting Through Clouds here on Psdtuts+, to make this light coming through the clouds. Set the Blending Mode to Overlay.



Step 9


Just Burn the dark side of the castle and Dodge the light part of it with a large, soft brush. By doing this, they make it appear as if the light is coming from the clouds and hitting the right side of the castle, leaving the other side in darkness.
At this point we are  done, but the picture is overall dark and our blur earlier has left it slightly blurry, so we'll fix that next.



Step 10


To finish the picture, generate a brand spanking new layer above the rest and go to Picture > Apply Picture, use the settings "Merged", "RGB" and "Normal" for blending. This will generate a brand spanking new layer above the rest holding a duplicate of the picture. Set this layer to Screen and about 70% Opaqueness. Then go through each layer and apply Filter > Sharpen > Unsharp Mask and use the settings Amount: 250% and Radius .2px (Use a bigger radius for larger images). This ought to sharpen the picture back up to give us a lovely final result.

Click on the image below to see a larger version:



Thursday 5 March 2015

Add Dramatic Rain to a Photo in Photoshop


In this tutorial, they will demonstrate how to add a dramatic rain effect to a photograph in Photoshop. While rain effects are not new to Photoshop, they will go a step further & show how to make the picture more photorealistic by adding reflections & small puddles. Let's start!

Tutorial Assets


The following assets were used in the work of the production of this tutorial. download them before you start or find options in the event that they are not available.

  • Walk on pier
  • Cloudy Scotland

1. Setting Up the Base

 Step 1

Open Walk on pier in Photoshop. Double-click the layer to unlock it and name it "Base."

The first step to add realistic rain is to have convincing clouds. Go to File > Place... and place Cloudy Scotland at the top of your canvas. You will require to stretch the picture a bit so the clouds fully cover the sky. To do so, hit CMD/CTRL + T to enter Free Transform mode and input 120% for the height. Hit enter to confirm, name the layer "Sky" and place it below your "Base" layer.




Step 2


Using your favourite gizmo, generate a choice of the sky (I used the Speedy Choice Gizmo). Select your "Base" layer, hit CMD/CTRL + G to group it, & generate a mask from the choice in order to hide the sky.




I recommend you take the time to refine your mask. This will help accomplish a photorealistic lead to the finish. To do so, select your group's mask and use a black or white Brush (B) to paint in and out the parts you desire.



Since the sky still has a tiny little bit of color, generate a Black & White modification layer to make sure it fits your base layer.



Step 3


When it rains, the air gets humid, leading to fog that hides far away elements. To do this, use a soft massive Brush with a grey color (#C3C3C3 in this case) & draw a straight line on the horizon (hold Shift when painting to draw in straight line). Set the layer opaqueness to 50%. You can then duplicate the layer (CMD/CTRL + J) & stretch it vertically to soften even more the fog. Name both layer "Fog" & place them below the group.



Finally, generate a Curves manipulation layer to darken the picture. Place it above everything else.



2. Generating the Rain


Step 1


The usual method to generate rain is to merge the Add Noise & the Motion Blur filter. Start by making a used layer (CMD/CTRL + Shift + N), then fill it with black (D, then Alt + Backspace), & then go to Filter > Noise > Add Noise. Scale the noise up to 400%.



Then go to Filter > Blur > Motion Blur and give the noise a slanted motion blur. Hit CMD/CTRL + M to raise the Curves modification panel and add contrast to your layer. Finally, switch your layer to Screen and name it "Rain."



Now the key to receive a more realistic & more fascinating is randomness. You see, rain doesn't usually fall in a superbly straight line because of the wind. To get this randomness, they will must repeat the method a few times with a varying size of grain & angle of motion blur. In this case, I did the method with noise scaled to 250% & with a 79 ° blur.



And once again, this time with a 600% scale and 60 ° blur.




Finally, I basically generated noise & darkened it a lot. Name this layer "Noise."



Step 2


Set all your "Rain" layers to Screen, and unhide them.



Now this is a bit much. To fix this, give each of the rain layer a mask, select it, and go to Filter > Render > Clouds. This will reduce the effect and give the rain a more randomness. Also, set the "Noise" layer to 20% opaqueness.


3. Water Puddles and Reflectivity

 

Step 1


We managed to generate the falling rain. However, our picture doesn't look realistic yet. Why is that? Well, when you look at rain images, you realise that the rain drops are usually barely visible. What is visible, however, is a darker, soaked & reflective ground, which is the most important & the hardest part of the method. The first part to do so is to isolate our image's floor. Using your favourite tool, generate & fill the floor with a thick color on a brand spanking new layer.



Once you are satisfied together with your work, CMD/CTRL + Click on the layer thumbnail to retrieve its choice, generate a new empty group & generate a mask out of the choice. Name the group "Floor Mask."


Step 2


Duplicate your "Base" layer and place it in your "Floor Mask" folder. Go to Filter > Filter Gallery and pick Bas Relief. Give it the values as indicated in the example below and press enter. Give it a Curves modification to darken it a tiny bit (you can clip it by holding Alt and clicking between the layers). Set the layer to Color Dodge.



Once again, we'll give the layer a cloudy mask in order to add randomness. Let's start by making a new layer filled with clouds. Hit CMD/CTRL + T & scale it down under the horizon. Still in the Free Transform mode, right-click & select Point of view. Move the bottom corner handles to roughly match the point of view of the planks. Hit CMD/CTRL + A to select everything, & CMD/CTRL + X to cut it. Give the layer you created in the last step a mask, select the mask in the Channels panel & paste the clouds in.



Step 3


Since our floor is soaked, it ought to reflect the things above it, including the sky. To do this, duplicate your "Sky" layer and place inside the "Floor Mask" folder. Flip it vertically (CMD/CTRL + T, right-click and pick Flip-Vertical) and set it to 15% opaqueness. Notice at this step I brought back the earlier Black & White filter above the "Pier" group.



Step 4


Now we'll require to retrieve the choice from the area between the sky & the floor. To do so, retrieve the choice from the "Floor Mask" group's mask (CMD/CTRL + Click). Then, invert the mask (Select > Inverse), & CMD/CTRL + Alt + Click on the "Pier" group's mask. With the choice active, duplicate (CMD/CTRL + J) your base layer in order to receive a duplicate of this particular area. Name the new layer "Reflection."



Now the next step is a small bit tricky. In order to help yourself, you ought to hide all effects. You can also generate a new layer below "Reflection", fill it with red (Edit > Fill) & set it to 50% opaqueness.




Flip your layer vertically & place it so the feet of the couple on the left match. Using the Rectangular Marquee Gizmo (M), generate a choice of the wall to the left & bring it up. With the choice still active, use the Skew transformation mode (CMD/CTRL+T, right-click > Skew) to make the reflection mirror the wall's point of view.



Repeat the process for the following wall.



Keep going until you get the following result.


Step 5


You can now delete the red layer & place the "Reflection" layer inside the "Floor Mask", above the "Sky" layer & set it to Multiply. Now you will notice there's a few places they must work a small bit more.



Using the Smudge Gizmo (located under the Blur tool), you can smudge back the parts of the reflections that are missing. For the area between the legs of the couple on the left, you can basically paint with a grey brush.



In this case, I also gave the layer a mask & softly painted out parts of the reflection. When you are done, you can bring back the effects & lower the layer opaqueness to 35%.



Step 6


We can enhance the floor a bit more. Select every layer below the "Black & White" layer, duplicate & merge them. Apply the Reticulation Filter (from the Filter Gallery) & give it the values as shown in the example. Hit CMD/CTRL + M to raise the Curves Panel & increase the layer's contrast a bit. Finally, place the layer inside the "Floor Mask" group & name it "Reticulation."




Voilà! We are done! In case you missed anything, here is what your final layer setup should look like.



You can also compare the final picture with the base template & appreciate the formidable work you have done!


Conclusion

In this tutorial, they showed you how to quickly add a dramatic rain effect to your pics. In addition, they also showed you how to add reflections and puddles to make the effect more realistic.